Dendera og Abydos

Abydos was the burial place of the first kings and the pilgrimage centre of Osiris for three thousand years. The temple Seti I built there has an L-shaped plan with seven sanctuaries for seven gods and reliefs carved in raised relief so fine they look modelled in wax. In a corridor at the back, the King List names every legitimate king before Seti and omits Hatshepsut, Akhenaten and Tutankhamun. Behind it lies the Osireion, a granite hall built as the tomb of Osiris.

Dendera is thirteen centuries younger and complete: the hypostyle hall with 24 Hathor-headed columns and a ceiling that shows the sky goddess Nut swallowing the sun each evening, the sanctuary, the crypts with the "Dendera light" relief, the staircases up to the roof chapels for the New Year, and, on the rear wall, Cleopatra VII and her son Caesarion making offerings.

The road between them runs along the Nile through the villages of the Qena governorate, and the day is as much about that as the temples.